WOOHOO....here we are back with Part two of our Lunar Collection Sew Along with Ellen!
Over to you Ellen:
We are going to finish putting the exterior together. Grab the prepared exterior, mark the centre of the base on both sides, and the centre of the front and back exterior at the top. Now mark the centre of the Side exterior gussets and centre of both the exterior zip gussets.
Everybody has a different method of wrangling gussets, some use pins, others use wonder clips, some hand baste, and staples are making a comeback also. As Chris says in the pattern, everyone has to find the way that best suits them. I’m a pinner and baster, and this is how I did my gussets. I know Chris says to do it in sections, and I did pin different sections at different times. However, on my first bag I ended up pinning the whole thing before sewing. On my second bag (small) I seamed a few inches at the centre of the top zip gusset where marked, and at the mark at the bottom of the side gusset. Then I continued pinning in place.
So, let’s get started matching the marks we made at the bottom of the side gusset. Pin.
Match the marks at the centre of the zip gusset to the mark on the top of the exterior. Pin. Then work your way across the top and around the corner.
On my second bag (the small), I made a mark at 3 cm above the seam that joins the gussets, I matched that mark to the top corner of the exterior. This seemed to fit nicely so copied that 3cm mark to the other corners. I wish I had done that with the first bag. But what I did do, was work out what I thought fitted nicely on the first corner and then copied it to the other corners, but with no markings, after doing all four corners, I looked at the bag from the ends and made sure it looked even from the end.
Working from the gusset side, pin down the curved sides, easing it in as you go. Repeat on the other end.
Close up of the corner from the gusset side.
I should have said earlier to pin the lining up out of the road.
Now seam all the way around with the gusset side up, if you have a problem (like on a corner), stop and turn over and keep seaming. Then swap back over a little further on. Where the seam is that joins the zip gusset and side gusset, you may need to squish the bag down and pull that seam out and over, so that the edge straightens and you can sew the seam straight. When you’re finished seaming all the way around, I suggest doing another row to neaten the seam. And then another row to squish and flatten the seam allowance, and then trim seam. I apologize for not enough pictures here, I was concentrating and forgot to take more pics, however there are a lot of the lining, which is similar.
To finish the inside of the exterior body, I did about 3 rows of stitching all around the body/gussets. Then pink or trim close to the last row of stitching. The less seam allowance on your curves the better it will sit when turns out, but you need to make sure your seams are secure, as these bags will have a lot of pressure on the seams. Especially when they are full. I meant to take a pic here but forgot....so here is one taken a little further on.
Lining: Retrieve the lining and zip pocket pieces. Follow the pattern and prepare your zip and draw in your box on the wrong side of one zip pocket piece. Place the pocket piece as instructed onto the Interior Body Lining, right sides together. Centre from side to side and the top edge of pocket the required distance from the top raw edge of the lining. Pin in place. Sew around the outer edge of the box, follow the instructions to cut the opening and turn out, I finger press around the box before turning. Press into place.
Pop your zip in and secure by whatever means you prefer. I do freehand. Using your zipper foot, top stitch around the zip 2mm from the edge. Now with the other zip pocket piece, position it on the back of the zip pocket, right sides together, and seam across the top and down both sides. Leaving the bottom open for turning of the bag.
Now if you were making pockets for the lining you would put them on now. I had already made a slip pocket and a luggage sleeve for the back of my bag. However at this point I made the executive decision that I didn’t want to put them on the outside and as an alternative, I put both inside as slip pockets and put a divider on both, so I have 4 pockets in there of different sizes. I also decided to use my left over cord from the outside. I put one piece under the pocket seam and put on an adjustable cord lock, so it’s adjustable and I can secure anything in there like a water bottle. On the opposite corner I used the other spare cord and attached a hook, and you can hook on anything you like on there. Lol
So now to attach the Body Lining ..... this is pretty much the same process as the body exterior, do your marking at the centre of the body top and base, and zip gusset and side gusset. I did actually sew the lining in sections this time. So I pinned and seamed a few inches at the base of the side gusset. Then pinned and seamed the same at the centre of the zip gusset. Then I stretched it over the exterior body and worked out a point where the sides should meet. I copied those points to the other sides. Then take it back off the body and worked my way around the corners, both top and bottom. Then seam together, and then move to the other side of the gusset. Before seaming the other side, I make sure that the corresponding sides are in an even placement at the seam that joins the zip gusset with the side gusset. I might just add here, that when you seam that spot, you will need to push and squish the bag out of the road and pull the seam point as much as possible to the right to make it easier to sew a straight seam.
Please remember to make sure before you sew the other side of the lining ...... to OPEN your pocket ZIP. As this is where you’ll turn it out. Guess what silly billy forgot ..... lucky I’ve worked with zips a lot and it wasn’t a huge deal for me ......lol ... got my silly face on there!! Now I’m just going to through a heap of pics at you and hope they help.
Now when you’re finished .. go around again, neatening up your seam. And I did a third round and then trimmed, especially the corners.
This is what I have now, looking a little squished, poor possum!!
TURN ... Actually before turning, just go back over the insides and make sure everything looks good. After turning, you don’t want to have to turn it back out again because something is caught somewhere.
OK now Turn .. check it and make sure it all looks good.
I secured my lining at the side of the zip gusset by going back in through the pocket and did a few hand stitches along the seam allowance where the zip gusset joins the body.
Close the bottom of the pocket.
Attach straps and secure to the body by installing the rivets through all layers. If you have a problem with the thickness, I punch the hole, insert the rivet and from the back, use little pliers or clippers and push the thickness down onto the rivet and then pop the cap on and then hammer it on.
Oh Gosh... by Golly .... we are done ... well apart from a good press.
Oh ..lol I forgot the base sleeve. I seamed up my sleeve the same way I did my slip pockets, turn and slide the Coreflute in and seam shut with my zipper foot.
Now we are done!!!! Yippee
Thank Christine for the opportunity to .... well waffle on ... hopefully this will assist some people to sew up this amazing design. Christine you ROCK!!!
For those of you not on Facebook, please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org if there is something you need help with!
Thank you Ellen! :) I am over the moon happy that you do these sew alongs for us! :) YOU ROCK! :)
If you haven't got the pattern yet, you can grab it in my shop HERE.
Until next time, happy sewing!