Welcome to the Penny Inn Sew Along, with Ellen - Part Three B! Please DO join in the Facebook group Sew Along running in conjunction HERE! I know everyone is eager to get on with Part Three B, since we are a little bit late posting....and this time I am to blame, or should I say my poor internet connection! (grrrr).....OK... over to you Ellen.....
Yep Yep Yep.... here we are again...lol .... Thanks for coming back and joining us.
So we’re up to putting together the Pocket A section that goes in the front section of the wallet.
Zipper Pocket A - Prepare your zipper as per pattern to 7 ¼ “, grab your zipper pocket A piece and draw on a zipper box by following the measurements in the pattern.
Section A – Retrieve one of the pieces, placing Section A facing up and zipper section A on top facing down, right sides together, centered left to right and 6mm from top, pin it together and go ahead and sew around the outside line of the box.
Cut the centre line of the box and angle into the corners. I like to give it a good finger press and then turn it through. Give it a press and manipulate the square into a nice neat box, press again.
Position the zip in the box, using double sided tape or pins (I’m a free hand kinda gal), with pull at the top. Using a zipper foot top stitch the zip in. Press, don’t melt the zip... use the pressing cloth. I’ll have everyone using pressing cloths before I finish...lol.
Now fold the underneath zipper pocket up and under so the bottom edge meets the edge with the T, with the right sides together. Seam these together across the top with the zipper foot. I like to get as close as I can and do a second line for strength. Now seam together the sides, I like to trim a little more than advised in the pattern to make sure these edges stay out of the way of future seam, especially the top.
Section A 2nd piece – Lay on the table, the Section A/Zipper pocket assembly with right side up, retrieve the other Section A piece and place it on top with the right side down. Pin or wonder clip the bottom edge (only) together evenly and then seam together. Give it a press whilst turning seam allowance towards the zip pocket. See picture in pattern page 41 part I.
Next we need to retrieve your Card slots/ ID window and fit it to Section A/ Zipper assembly. The left side of the card slots need to line up as close as possible with the seam edge you just did. And the side edges should also line up.
The right side of the card slots should partially cover the zip. When you have it in the right spot then baste the sides to fix it place.
Hope you’re all following me and I don’t sound like I’m talking Gibberish.
This is where we need either your Card Slots B1 OR the Supplementary pocket. I will refer to the card slots as that is what I used in the end, even though I made both Just to show you. The bottom of the card slots B1 joins to the top of our card slots A /zipper assembly.
Pin the two edges right side together, while positioning the card slots in the center of A assembly. There should be approximately 1 cm of the A assembly protruding out from either end. Seam together, open out and press seam towards the zip/A assembly section.
Now...Fold the bottom Section A up to the front and encase the Card slots/ Zip assembly. Pin the sides and try it on the Body front inside, to check for width. When you think you have it right then seam the sides. Before trimming, I like to turn mine out and check the width again. After adjusting if needed, then clip corners and reduce bulk in the seam. Turn /Press and pin the back closed by aligning the back open edge with the seam between the card slots and the A assembly. Now seam by top stitching across 3 mm below that seam. Give it a good press and be careful with the vinyl. Set aside for now.
Now we’ll do the other smaller sections that go inside the back section of the wallet.
Zipper Pockets x2 – You should have four pieces; these two pockets are exactly the same, except the two zips run in opposite direction. Resize your 2 zips to 7.5” that measurement includes the end parts you’ve sewn across. Follow the pattern, drawing in the zip boxes as per the given measurements on to the two pieces; these will eventually be the outsides. Pin these right sides together to the other 2 pieces which will now be your lining pieces.
Sew around your box / cut along the center line and cut the angle v at the ends/ I like to give it a good finger press all the way around, from both sides, before turning. Give it a good press (with a cloth) and manipulate your ends into a neat square and press again.
Position your zips with the pulls at different ends using double sided tape or pins and sew in place. Another press if you like but be careful of the zip.
Now this next part has tricked a few people. We are going to make this into a tube. Lay the zip pocket in front of you, right side up. Pick up the left top edge in one hand and the right side top edge in your right hand and join together. Pin them together evenly and the right side of the fabric should be together. As you lift it up the other two edges will fall down and meet ... pin these together again the right sides of the fabric should be together.
Now we need to seam together where pinned. I make the lining seam 1/4 “bigger, so when they are turned out the right way, they will fit together nicely. Trim the seams as per pattern and turn out. To turn you need to fold the top tube inside out and over the bottom tube so that the zip ends up on the outside. Give it a press, be careful of the zip and now do your other zip pocket.
You should have the seam at the bottom and with the zipper sitting flat it should give you about 1 cm or so above the zipper. Top stitch on top of the previous row of top stitching that is at the top of the pockets, just above the zip. This will hold the front and back of the pocket together nicely and give you a casing for a stabilizer if you wish to use it.
So I did put in a stabilizer at the top of the pockets. But I used boning; I rounded the edged also so it didn’t poke into the fabric and keep the length to about just a little longer than the zip. If it’s too long you’ll end up with in your side seam later. You can now do another row of top stitching 3mm from the top if you wish but I opted to not do that. Don’t ask me why as I have no idea. Set them aside.
Welts – So just the welts left to seam together. Please do pencil in the angels and pivot points, this will help to give it the correct shape and size. As you can see Christine must have gone to a lot of trouble to get these little suckers the right shape. Follow the pattern, making sure you have the right sides together and mark the front and back. Seam together, clip and reduce seam allowance, turn out and press, top stitch top and bottom, baste sides and mark the fold lines on the inside and sew on the line on the inside as per pattern. Make sure you still have the front and back edges marked. Give it a good press and set aside.
So now we have all our pieces assembled..... It’s only a matter of putting the jigsaw puzzle together. I think we’ll do that in the last week in Section 4
Thanks for hanging out with me here and coming along on the ride. I’ll see you in Section 4. Hooroo from Australia.
Thank you again Ellen, looking forward to our next installment! :)
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