Serendipity Hip / Lunar Bag Mash-up Tutorial by Elizabeth Widmayer
Emma Pattern Revamped! - Now Includes a Flap!

Brandt's Boulevard/Olivia Pattern Hack by Sonja Davison

Hello everyone....Today Sonja has a fabulous Brandt's Boulevard/Olivia hack to share with you! Over to you Sonja:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

“Brandtivia” Tutorial

by Sonja Davison

Brandtivia

Please note:  I have sewn both patterns in their entirety using a 6mm (¼”) seam allowance and have specified where different seam allowances should be used.

One of the many great things about Christine’s patterns is the endless options for hacking  customization.  Combining the Brandt’s Boulevard with the Olivia is a perfect example, given the many design possibilities.  These instructions combine the two as I made them, but you can always take my ideas and make them better!

First, you want to create the Brandt’s Boulevard.  You will need to cut out all of the pattern pieces except the Wrist Strap, Strap Tab and the Body Stabilizer.   Do the same for the Fusible Interfacing and Fusible Fleece (Note:  I created a “secret pocket” between the back of the Brandt’s Boulevard and the front of the Olivia, so I added fusible fleece to the half of the Exterior Fabric body which will be sewn to the Olivia bag front.  This will also be the side that the Flap will be sewn to).

Secret

Because I am a “more is more” kind of girl, I chose 5 fabrics for my project – I will refer to them as “Exterior”, “Accent 1 (solid)”, “Accent 2 (stripe)”, “Accent 3 (damask)”, “Lining”.  

Fabric

You will also need extra wide elastic (3.81cm W (1 ½” W) (or wider if you can find it) for the wallet gussets.

Elastic

Additional pieces to cut:

Accent 1 (solid)

Brandt’s Boulevard:

Cut 1 – Decorative Flap Strap 5 cm W x 10.5cm H (2” W x 4” H)

Cut 1 – Metal Ring Loop 3.81cm W x 5.08 cm L (1 ½“ W x 2” L)

Olivia:

Cut 1 – Top Decoration Strap  (for back of bag) 40.5cm W x same height as Top Decoration Straps pattern piece  (16” W x same height as Top Decoration Straps pattern piece)

Accent 2 (stripe)  Fabric:

Brandt’s Boulevard:

Cut 1 – Flap 20.3cm W x 10.5cm H (8” W x 4” H)

Olivia:

Cut 1 – Small Sunglasses Pocket 22.25 cm W x 12.75 cm H (8 ¾” W x 5” H)

Lining Fabric:

Brandt’s Boulevard:

Cut 1 – Flap 20.3cm W x 10.5cm H (8” W x 4” H)

Olivia:

Cut 1 – Small Sunglasses Pocket 22.25 cm W x 12.75 cm H (8 ¾” W x 5” H)

Fusible Interfacing:

Cut 1 – Decorative Flap Strap 3.81 cm W x 9.53cm H (1 ½” W x 3 ¾” H)

Cut 1 – Metal Ring Loop 12mm W x 5.08 cm L (¾“ W x 2” L)

Cut 1 – Flap 20.3cm W x 10.5cm H (8” W x 4” H)

Cut 1 – Small Sunglasses Pocket 22.25 cm W x 12.75 cm H (8 ¾” W x 5” H)

Fusible Fleece

Cut 1 – Flap 20.3cm W x 10.5cm H (8” W x 4” H)

Cut 1 – Small Sunglasses Pocket 22.25 cm W x 12.75 cm H (8 ¾” W x 5” H)

Décor Bond

Cut 1 – Flap 20.3cm W x 10.5cm H (8” W x 4” H)

Extra Wide Elastic:

Cut 2 – Gusset  8.89 cm long (3 ½“ L)

Preparation:

Apply the fusible interfacing and fusible fleece to respective pieces. 

Apply the fusible fleece to the Lining Fabric of the Small Sunglasses Pocket and to the Accent 2 (stripe) fabric of the Flap.

Apply the fusible interfacing AND the Décor Bond to the Lining Fabric of the Flap.

Center and apply the fusible interfacing to both the Decorative Flap Strap and the Metal Ring Loop.

Do not fold seam allowance under on Body and Body Lining pieces.

Create Decorative Flap Strap:

Fold and iron wrong sides together both long edges towards the center using a 6mm (¼”) seam allowance.  Also fold and iron wrong sides together 6mm (¼”) on one short side.  The Decorative Flap Strap should now measure 5.08 cm W and 9.5 cm H (2” W x 3 ¾” H).

Create Metal Ring Loop:

Fold Metal Ring Loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.  Unfold and bring both long sides in towards the center, wrong sides together, iron well.  Topstitch both folded long edges using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.  The Metal Ring Loop should now measure 12mm W x 5.08 H (¾” W x 2” H).

Retrieve 1” metal ring.   Place topstitched fabric through the ring and bring both raw short ends together.   The Metal Loop Ring should now measure 12mm W x 2.54 cm H (¾” W x 1” H)

Stitch across strap 9mm (½“) from where the fabric folds around the ring.

Combine Decorative Flap Strap and Metal Ring Loop:

Center the Metal Ring Loop under the folded short edge of the Decorative Flap Strap 9 mm (½“) down from raw edges of Metal Ring Loop.  Baste in place. 

Ring

Create Flap:

Place exterior and lining fabrics wrong sides together and round the corners.

Find the center of the Lining Fabric on the rounded corners long edge.  Measure 1.9cm (1”) up from long edge center and mark with a fabric pen.  This is where the center of your snap closure will be.  Install male portion of snap as you normally would.

Place both Flap pieces right sides together and sew around three sides, leaving the long straight edge unsewn for turning. Clip rounded corners, turn Flap right sides out, and press well.

Retrieve your completed Decorative Flap Strap/Metal Ring Loop piece and center on top of exterior Flap.  Line up the folded short edge with the long rounded corners edge.  The Metal Ring Loop should hang below the flap.  

Flap

Top stitch the Decorative Flap Strap onto the Flap using a 3 mm (1/8”) seam allowance.  Repeat the topstitching using a 6 mm (¼”) seam allowance.  Your stitching will be visible on the Lining side.  Remove the basting stitches that were holding your Metal Ring Loop onto the folded edge of the Decorative Flap Strap. Trim any excess fabric and press well.

Now baste straight edge of the Flap opposite the Metal Ring Loop shut using a 3mm (1/8”) seam allowance. 

Topstitch around the three finished sides of the Flap using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.  Stop when you come to the Decorative Flap Strap, unless you are very good at topstitching (so jealous, because I am not) in which case you can stitch over your Decorative Flap Strap topstitching.  Repeat using a 6mm (¼”) seam. 

Continue with original pattern instructions, picking up at Section 5 – Zipper Pocket.

Omit Section 6d – do not fold the short edge of the Body Lining piece under.  Continue from here as instructed by Christine through to Section 8h.

Now Pay Attention because things are about to get turned around - LOL!!

Once you have completed through to Section 8h you will need to do the following:

Card Pocket Backing/Card Pocket/ID Pocket Assembly:

Flip the Cards Pocket Backing onto the Cards Pocket/ID Pocket right sides together aligning raw short edges.   Sew the BOTTOM long edge (opposite your credit card and ID openings) using a 6mm (¼”) seam allowance.   Leave raw short edge unsewn. 

Turn Pocket Assembly right sides out.  Press well.  Continue as instructed by Christine in Section 8i.  Do not proceed to Section 8j.

Assemble Body Lining:

Retrieve your Body Lining with the Zipper Pocket already basted in place.

Place the top of your Card/ID Pocket assembly 12mm (¾”) down from raw short edge so the BOTTOM of the Card/ID Pocket assembly is opposite the BOTTOM of the Zipper Pocket assembly.   

Flip

Pin and baste the raw short edges of your Card/ID Pocket onto Body Lining using a 3mm (1/8”) seam allowance.  Topstitch the bottom long edge of your Card/ID Pocket onto the Body Lining using a 3mm (1/8”) seam. 

Create Elastic Gusset:

Fold Elastic Gusset pieces in half, matching short sides.

Sew along folded edge as close to edge as possible. 

Edge

Retrieve completed Body Lining/Flap piece.

Place one raw edge of one Gusset piece 4.4 cm (1 ¾”) down from top of Body Lining (NOT top of Flap!).  Align raw edge of Gusset elastic with raw edge of Body Lining and baste in place using a 3mm (1/8”) seam. Repeat with other Gusset elastic and place on opposite side of Body Lining.  

Gusset

Secure both free edges of Gusset elastic with pins onto the zipper pocket to keep them out of the way for the next step. 

Pin

Assemble Wallet:

Retrieve your Body Lining and Flap pieces.  Make sure the free ends of the Gussets are still pinned to the Zipper Pocket.

Align raw edge of Flap, lining side down, with the raw short edge of the Zipper Pocket end of the Body Lining.  Baste raw edges using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.

Retrieve your Body Exterior piece and place right side together on top of the Body Lining/Flap piece.  Your Flap and the Gussets are now sandwiched between the two Body pieces.  Pin all sides. 

Starting on the Flap end, sew around all four sides using a 6 mm (¼”)  seam.  Leave a 12.7 cm (5”) opening on the side opposite the Flap end.  Make sure you do not catch your Flap when you sew!

Trim your corners and turn right side out.  It will be a bit fiddly with the Flap, so go slow and don’t poke yourself with the needles holding down your Gussets!!

Fold the seam allowance under at opening and give everything a good press. 

Install Remaining Snap:

Retrieve the female portion of the snap.

Find the center on the Exterior short edge of the wallet (the side which still has the unsewn opening).

Measure and mark 3.17 cm (1 ¼”) down from folded edge.  This is the center of your snap.  Make sure your already installed Snap part on the Flap lines up perfectly.

Install your snap as usual.

Fold your Wallet, snap your Flap and admire your work.  Once you’ve patted yourself on the back for a job well done, set the Wallet aside briefly.

Onto the Olivia!

If you haven’t already done so, cut and interface your Olivia as specified in Christine’s pattern.

Retrieve all the “extra” pieces you cut earlier which will be added to the Olivia.

Once you have finished with Section 4 of the pattern instructions, retrieve the 40.5 cm W (16” W) Top Decoration Strap fabric.

Create strap as specified in Christine’s pattern, Section 10, for the Top Decorator Strap (omitting the metal ring.  This is just one long strap you are creating.).

Sew strap onto the Exterior Main Back Panel using the same dimensions as Christine’s pattern:  3.8cm (1 ½”) down from the top of Panel.  Sew across from one side to the other.  Trim off any excess fabric so it is flush with the raw edges of the Exterior Main Back Panel

Strap

Set aside for now.

You will omit Sections 5 through 9 of Christine’s pattern.

Attach the Brandt Boulevard to the Olivia:

Retrieve your Exterior Front Bag Body

Find centers (left to right) of Bag Body and of closed Wallet.

Center Wallet onto Exterior Front Bag Body 12.06 cm (4 ¾”) down from top edge.

Open the Wallet so it lies flat.  Re-check your placement to make sure you are still centered and where the Flap meets the Wallet is still 12.06 cm (4 ¾”) down from top and straight!

Pin in place.  You need only pin to the bottom of the Zipper Pocket.  Re-check your placement once you are done pinning and make any necessary adjustments! 

Make sure the raw edges of the Gussets are still pinned to the Zipper Pocket.  The attached ends should lie flush against the Wallet interior as we will be sewing them down. 

Starting at the top corner (where the Flap is attached to the Wallet and using a 6mm (¼ “) seam, topstitch the Wallet onto the Exterior Front Bag Body – backstitching a few times at the beginning.  Topstitch over the Gusset

Elastic2

Once you reach the bottom of the Zipper Pocket, stop with your needle down and turn your Bag Body/Wallet.  You will now topstitch in the ditch directly under the Zipper Pocket.

Stop 6mm (¼ “) from the other side, and with your needle down, turn the Bag Body/Wallet and continue topstitching up the side to the corner where the Wallet meets the Flap.  Backstitch a few times.

Repeat entire process using a 3mm (1/8“) seam allowance.  Down one side, turn, stitch across Zipper Pocket bottom 3mm (1/8”) away from previous stitching, turn and continue up the other side.

I then reinforce the wallet corners (where the Flap is attached to the Wallet) by stitching diagonally across the corners.  This is a personal preference.  I did it to reinforce the corners of the “secret pocket” that has just been created. 

Corner

Now, the next part takes a bit of doing, so no beer, wine or sangria until you are done!!

Finish the Front of the Wallet and Gussets:

The part of the Wallet that is now sewn to the Olivia will be referred to as the “Wallet Back”.  The free hanging part is the “Wallet Front”.

Measure 4.4 cm (1 ¾”) from the short edge of the Wallet Front on each long Lining side.  Mark both Lining sides with a fabric marker or pin.

Take the bottom of the Olivia Exterior Front Bag Body and fold wrong sides together as tightly as you can at the seam where the Wallet Back is attached.  Pin so it is out of the way.  You basically want your Wallet Front to be completely free and clear of the Exterior Front Bag Body.

Starting with some long bobbin and needle thread tails, using a 6mm (¼”) seam, topstitch around the three sides of the Wallet Front.  As best you can, begin your stitching where your previous Wallet Back stitching ended (where you turned and started to sew beneath the Zipper Pocket).

When you reach the other side (where you turned from the Zipper Pocket and went up the side of the Wallet Back) get as close as you can to the Wallet Back side stitching and leave long bobbin and needle thread tails.

You will now pull your thread to the back (interfaced) side and tie off.  If need be, you can hand sew a few stitches to line up with your Wallet Back stitching.

Repeat entire process using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.   Your opening for turning has now been sewn shut.

Attaching Gusset to Wallet Front:

Find the marks you previously made on each Lining sides of the Wallet Front.

Unpin your Gusset ends from the zipper wallet.

Fold the raw edge of the Elastic onto itself using slightly less than a 6mm (¼”) allowance. 

Fold

Align the folded edge, raw side down, with the finished edge of the Wallet Front Lining at the mark.  

Place

Pin Elastic to Wallet Front Lining securely.  

Sew

Fold the sides of the Olivia Exterior Front Bag Body wrong sides together at the Wallet Back side seam to keep it out of the way.  Pin.

Place your Wallet Front face down on your sewing machine and carefully topstitch your folded Gusset edge using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.  Match your stitching over your Wallet Front topstitching.  Repeat using a 6mm (¼”) seam (again, stitching over your Wallet Front topstitch).

Repeat entire process for the other Gusset.

Yay!  You have completed the combining of the Brandt’s Boulevard with the Olivia.  All that is left is to finish sewing the Olivia per Christine’s pattern instructions.  Have some wine, dance a jig, call your friends and tell them what a task you’ve just completed!!

Sunglasses Pocket:  (easy, breezy compared to what we’ve just completed!)

Retrieve your interfaced Small Sunglasses Pocket Exterior and Lining Fabrics and place them wrong sides together.

I chose to mimic the shape of the Flap onto the pocket – your options here are endless.   I made a Flap template by tracing the Flap onto a piece of paper and cutting it out.  Center template onto fabrics, left to right, placing the rounded edges 2.54 cm (1”) down from long edge. 

Template

Place your newly cut fabrics right sides together lining up all raw edges and sew all four side, leaving a 7.62 cm (3”) opening for turning at the straight edge.

Clip all corners and rounded edges.

Turn right side out and press well.

Topstitch along top of pocket using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.

Retrieve your Inside Zipper Pocket Bottom.  (I prefer to sew onto the exterior fabric only so you don’t see the stitches inside the pocket, but that’s just personal preference).

Center (left to right) the Small Sunglasses pocket 2.54 cm (1”) down from finished edge of the Inside Zipper Pocket Bottom.

Glasses

Topstitch around three sides using a 3mm (1/8”) seam.

Pop the cork because you are officially done with the hack portion of your Brandtivia!!  Continue assembling the Olivia per Christine’s pattern.  Enjoy and thank you so much!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks so much for sharing this with us Sonja! Totally AWESOME!

Do you have your Brandt's Boulevard  & Olivia patterns yet? You can grab them in my website pattern shop HERE

Happy hacking! ;)

Christine

Follow me on Twitter! Follow me on Facebook! Flickr Pool! ChrisW Designs on Etsy Follow me on Pinterest! Send me an Email! Google+! Follow me with Feedburner!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments